MASH

THE UNFORGETTABLE DISASTER OF HAWKEYE PIERCE AND THE RIBS

I was doing a podcast interview recently, just a relaxed conversation about the old days of television production.

The host and I were having a great time, bouncing from topic to topic, when he suddenly hit me with a completely unexpected question.

He leaned into the microphone and asked if the infamous, terrible food we always complained about in the mess hall was actually as bad as we made it seem on screen.

I couldn’t help but laugh out loud right there in the studio.

I told him that most of the time, the prop food was just bland or harmless.

But there was one specific incident that still haunts my tastebuds to this day.

It happened during the third season, in an episode called Adam’s Ribs.

The entire plot revolves around Hawkeye Pierce going absolutely out of his mind for a taste of authentic barbecue ribs from Dearborn Station in Chicago.

He moves heaven and earth to get a massive package of these ribs shipped all the way to Korea.

Our brilliant props department wanted the final payoff scene to look incredibly authentic.

So, they went out early that morning and bought huge, beautiful platters of real barbecue ribs from a local joint in Los Angeles.

When they brought them onto the soundstage at seven in the morning, the whole place smelled like absolute heaven.

It was a phenomenal barbecue aroma.

But here is the reality of television production that people at home never see.

You rarely shoot a scene the moment the props arrive.

We were filming on an indoor soundstage under giant, scorching tungsten lights that practically baked everything beneath them.

The eating scene wasn’t scheduled until late in the afternoon.

So, for over eight hours, those gorgeous ribs sat completely uncovered on a table right in the middle of our blazing hot set.

By the time four o’clock rolled around, the sauce had congealed into a strange, sticky glue.

The delicious barbecue smell had slowly shifted into something highly questionable, and finally, into something outright putrid.

Gene Reynolds, our director, was setting up the tight shot.

He wanted the camera right in our faces to capture the pure, unadulterated ecstasy of eating this masterpiece.

Mike Farrell and I sat down at the table.

The smell wafting up from the plate was absolutely horrific.

I could see the crew physically backing away from the table to get some fresh air.

Gene called out from the darkness, telling us we needed to look like this was the greatest meal we had ever experienced in our entire lives.

And that’s when it happened.

The assistant director yelled for quiet on the set.

Gene called action.

I reached down and picked up this heavy, terrifying, room-temperature piece of meat.

I glanced over at Mike.

He was already turning a very slight, highly concerning shade of green.

But we were professionals, and the camera was rolling.

I took a huge, enthusiastic bite right out of the center of the rib.

The taste was completely beyond human description.

It was warm, rancid, intensely sweet from the dried-out sauce, and somehow metallic all at once.

Instead of moaning in culinary ecstasy like the script demanded, I let out this bizarre, strangled whimper.

I tried to smile, but my face completely froze in terror.

Mike took his bite right on cue.

He didn’t even make it two seconds.

He instantly broke character, grabbed a paper napkin, and spit the entire bite out.

He started laughing so hard that he was genuinely choking.

Seeing him completely fall apart was all it took for me to lose whatever composure I had left.

I was trying desperately to chew, but I was just shaking with laughter while holding a mouthful of awful, sun-baked pork.

Gene yelled cut from the director’s chair.

But the cut didn’t matter because Gene was already laughing just as hard as we were.

He walked over to the table, wiping tears from his eyes, and told us we looked like we were trying to eat rubber tires.

He begged us to try it again.

So, we set up for take two.

The prop master hurried over with a fresh plate.

But of course, it wasn’t fresh at all.

It was just another pile of ribs from the exact same batch that had been sitting under the lights since dawn.

The camera rolled again.

I looked around the set and saw half the crew pulling their shirts over their noses to block out the smell.

This time, I tried to cheat the camera.

I brought the rib right up to my lips, planning to just mime the bite.

But Gene caught me immediately.

He stopped the take and shouted that he needed to see us actually chew the meat, or the entire joke of the episode wouldn’t work.

We had no choice.

We went in for take three.

The comedy of the situation escalated so quickly that all professionalism just completely vanished from the soundstage.

Mike was trying so hard to hold his breath while taking a bite that his eyes started watering.

He leaned forward to deliver his line and accidentally knocked over a prop cup because he was completely blinded by his own tears of laughter.

I looked past the camera lens and saw the camera operator practically vibrating.

The viewfinder was physically bouncing up and down because the guy operating the equipment was silently laughing at our pure misery.

We literally could not get through the scene.

Every time we made eye contact while holding those terrible ribs, one of us would snort, and the whole take would be ruined.

We failed over and over again.

Gene finally had to stop the production and order a ten-minute break just so everyone could calm down.

The prop master came over to our table, looking absolutely mortified.

He apologized profusely and brought us tiny plastic buckets so we could politely spit out the food between takes.

That horrible afternoon instantly became a legendary running joke among the entire cast.

For the rest of the series, whenever we had to shoot a scene with strange mess hall food, someone would always lean in with a reminder.

They would whisper that no matter how bad the powdered eggs looked, at least it wasn’t the ribs.

It was the ultimate test of acting.

We had to rely on pure sense memory, pretending that we were sitting in a five-star restaurant while our nostrils were burning from the reality of the situation.

The contrast between my dialogue, where I talk about traveling ten thousand miles for this food, and the sheer desperation in my eyes is something I will never forget.

Eventually, we figured out a survival trick to get the scene in the can.

We realized we could just bite the hard edges of the bone where there was barely any meat.

We would scrape off a little barbecue sauce with our front teeth and use our hands to hide the fact that we weren’t really eating.

Even with that clever little trick, it took us about twelve takes to finally get a shot where neither of us was visibly crying from laughter.

It always amazes me when I look back at how much of television acting is simply surviving the absolute absurdity of your environment.

You try to create these perfect, memorable moments on screen, but behind the scenes, you are just a bunch of exhausted people trying not to gag on old barbecue.

It remains one of my favorite memories of working with that incredible group of people.

Have you ever had to smile and pretend to love something that was actually completely terrible?

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